Stain Removal - How To Remove Blood Stains?

Blood is the most common stain question for Wazoodle fabrics — particularly for makers of menstrual pads, cloth diapers, and nursing products. The universal rule applies regardless of fiber type: cold water immediately, never hot. Blood is a protein-based stain — heat permanently bonds it to the fabric. This applies equally to wash water, rinse water, and the dryer.

Never put stained fabric in the dryer until you are certain the stain is fully removed. Dryer heat permanently sets any remaining discoloration — even faint traces that look minor when wet.

Step 1: Blot First, Always

Before any treatment, blot the stain to pull liquid out of the fabric. Press a clean absorbent cloth firmly onto the stain — do not rub. Rubbing spreads the stain and drives it deeper into fibers.

Zorb Original as a blotting tool: A small cut piece of Zorb Original absorbs 10x its weight in under 2 seconds — making it exceptionally effective as a laundry blotter. Place one piece under the fabric and one on top, apply pressure, and let the absorption do the work. Rinse with cold water and repeat until the liquid is largely removed before moving to treatment.

Step 2: Treat by Fiber Type

After blotting, treatment depends on what the fabric is made of. The wrong treatment for the fiber can set the stain or damage the fabric.

Fiber-Type Treatment Decision

Cotton & Bamboo: Apply enzyme cleaner and saturate the stain fully — enzyme cleaners break down protein-based stains effectively on cellulosic fibers. For bamboo, let the enzyme cleaner sit for approximately 15 minutes without drying completely. Alternative: soak in cold water with distilled white vinegar for several hours.
Polyester: Enzyme cleaner works, or dab with 3% hydrogen peroxide (best on white or light-colored fabrics), or apply a baking soda and water paste for several hours before rinsing.
Merino Wool: Enzyme cleaners are too aggressive for wool fibers. Use a salt solution only — dissolve 2–3 tablespoons of salt per cup of cold water, soak the stained area for several hours or overnight. For severe stains, consult a professional dry cleaner.
PUL Fabrics: Cold water flush and PUL-safe gentle detergent only — see the PUL section below.

PUL Fabrics: Hard Restrictions

PUL has strict stain treatment limits. The polyurethane laminate film that makes PUL waterproof is chemically sensitive — the wrong treatment causes delamination that cannot be repaired.

Do NOT use on PUL: Enzyme cleaners, vinegar, baking soda, washing soda, soda ash, or soda crystals. Any of these — individually or combined — can cause laminate delamination.

For PUL stains: flush thoroughly with cold water, then wash with a gentle detergent confirmed safe for PUL. Add an extra rinse cycle to remove all detergent residue. Hang to dry — keep PUL away from direct sunlight, which degrades the urethane film. At high UV index, film damage can occur in as little as 10 hours of direct sun exposure.

Period Blood vs. Regular Blood

Period blood contains menstrual fluid with a different consistency than regular blood — it can seep deeper into fabric fibers and may be harder to fully remove. Treatment steps are the same, with one critical difference: do not rub. Rubbing period blood causes it to spread and set deeper. Use the blotting technique throughout, and apply a baking soda and water paste for 5–10 minutes before the cold water rinse.

Note for PUL menstrual products: Do not use baking soda paste on PUL — the restriction above applies even for period stains. Cold water flush and PUL-safe detergent only.

Step 3: Launder and Verify Before Drying

After treatment, wash in cold water with a gentle, free-and-clear detergent. Hang to dry — do not tumble dry until you have confirmed the stain is completely gone in natural light. What looks resolved when wet may still carry a faint residue that dryer heat will permanently set.

For drying temperature limits by fabric type, see Drying Methods by Fabric Type. For detergent selection, see General Care Principles.